Melaka got overlooked in favour of Penang for most of the time we were planning Malaysia. It shouldn't have been. The city is smaller and quieter than George Town but has the same quality of place — layers of history built into the architecture, food that reflects four centuries of trading port culture, and a hostel scene that's oddly excellent for a city this size.
What to see
The Red Square (Dutch Square) area is the obvious starting point — the Stadthuys, the Christ Church, and the surrounding Dutch colonial buildings cluster around a square that's more atmospheric than it has any right to be given how many tour groups pass through it daily.
Jonker Street runs through the heart of the old town and becomes a night market on weekends. The market is worth going to once; the street itself is worth walking on any day for the shophouses, antique dealers, and food.
The Melaka Sultanate Palace is a reconstruction of the 15th-century royal palace, built without a single nail using traditional techniques. The museum inside covers the sultanate period that preceded the Portuguese arrival in 1511.
The river cruise is a short boat ride through the heritage zone that gives you a different angle on the architecture. Not essential but pleasant in the evening.
The food
Melaka's signature dish is chicken rice balls — steamed rice formed into balls and served with poached chicken and a strong ginger sauce. The version at Chung Wah on Jonker Street is the one most people recommend.
Nyonya cuisine is the other local speciality — a hybrid of Chinese and Malay cooking traditions developed by the Peranakan community. Spiced, rich, and distinct from either parent cuisine. There are several good Nyonya restaurants in the old town.
Vietnamese coffee shops have proliferated in the last few years for reasons that aren't entirely clear but work well enough. The condensed milk versions are strong and good.
Where to stay
The social hostels around the old town are the real draw for solo travellers. The quality of the hostel community in Melaka punches above the city's size. If you're travelling alone and want to meet people, this is one of the better bets in Malaysia. Ask the guesthouses which events are on for the week — salsa nights, walking tours, and communal dinners appear regularly.
Practical tips
- Two to three days is the right amount of time
- Weekends are better for Jonker Street market; weekdays are better for actually moving around
- The old town is very walkable; you don't need transport within it
- Trishaws (decorated cycle rickshaws) operate throughout the heritage area — touristy but charming if you're in the right mood
- Melaka is 1.5 hours from KL by express bus; buses run frequently from Bersepadu Selatan terminal